I've used invizx 12# for medium divers and deep divers up to 6xd and have no complaints. It stretches almost as much as mono, it does cast well and seems to hold up ok. I'd use 15# for shallow cranks. I tried red label a couple of times and have never had so much trouble with break offs. Honestly, I've been spooling up my shallow cranking and topwater gear for years with 15# Big Game and have no complaints what so ever. It's like $8 for 600yds and is plenty strong. It's kinda stretchey but that's ok for treble hook applications especially in shallower water where fish tend to strike and thrash closer to the boat sometimes.

If you are looking for flouro that stretches, what is the point? I thought the no stretch thing was y people use flouro? Do yall use it because it sinks? I use red label and the BPS stuff for senkos and trick worms because it sinks, and sometimes on moving baits because I can feel more due to it not stretching.

Like bell0347, I prefer 15lb mono for squarebills. I use Invizx for worm/jig, spinnerbait, jerkbait + med/deep cranking because it has less stretch, more transparency, and more sensitivity.

You want some stretch when using treble hooks, and a lot of stuff I've seen recently suggests that more modern fluro stretches much more than people think, but still less than mono. Invizx seems stretchier than others I've tried, just making an observation. For cranking most people use it because it sinks and is typically thinner per pound than mono so there's less resistance which helps maximize your bait's depth and action. For shallow cranking I am not nearly as concerned with getting my bait a few inches deeper and a lot of people actually go to heavier line like 17 or 20# to intentionally limit the depth. The stretch helps absorb some of the pull when fish surge or strike near the boat and I use a faster all graphite rod for shallow cranking because I want to feel what my bait is doing. The glass/composite rods a lot of people use for deeper cranking tend to absorb more shock that the fluro can't to help keep treble hooks from pulling out. I love fluro for bottom contact techniques and deep cranking but stick with mono for most moving bait techniques. I use braid to fluro on spinning gear and straight braid for frogs, swim jigs, heavy flipping, etc. Just kind of what I've settled on after going back and forth on if flurocarbon is worth the extra money or not.

Spooled up with 15lb red label. It was what Amazon could get to my house quickest so I went ahead with it and got to try it the first time at Fayette today

I really do like the stiff feel of it and it didn't give me any issues. More than that of braid (for cranking anyway). Only problem is I think I introduced too much stretch now. My rod is a 7ft medium power medium action Falcon. It's been a hell of a shallow crank rod for the past 3 years when using braid (actually caught my 10.5 PB on it). I lost a decent amount of fish today due to the extra stretch. Half the time I couldn't even tell if I had a fish or grass.

Maybe it's just because I'm so used to braid, I just know I had a hard time keeping those trebles in their mouth. Either get a heavier rod or go back to braid, and it's 110% going to be the latter Will use the fluro for something else

That is just a myth that fluorocarbon line does not stretch. Test it out for your self if you don't believe that.

As I posted above, I can attest it that. Major difference from braid

I stick with mono with any moving baits, spinnerbait, crankbait, chatterbait... Floro for flippin', pitchin', worms and and football jigs... K.I.S.S... Dan